No Man’s Land: Inside the Buffer Zone

Last week, I had an amazing opportunity to visit the Buffer Zone in Nicosia on a UN-escorted tour. For an hour on a chilly morning, Michal, a peacekeeper from Slovakia, showed me the rarely-seen parts of the world’s last divided capital. Photo opportunities were limited, and I was told very seriously, “do not point your camera at the Turkish positions,” but even so, I came away with lots of fascinating stories and pictures. Here’s a sampling:

The view of the Buffer Zone from the edge of the Venetian Walls. Decrepit buildings dominate this heavily militarized strip of land, while everyday life continues no more than 50 meters away.

This building served as a high school until 1974. Now its sandstone walls are riddled with bullet holes as it falls into ruins.

The flags of Greece and Cyprus fly amidst tall grass and crumbling structures. Any changes to the Buffer Zone create military advantages and disadvantages, so it has remained largely untouched to preserve the terms of the cease-fire, if not the historic buildings.

A bathroom in shambles. Residents fled their homes when the fighting started, never to return.

UN Peacekeepers maintain a collection of footballs that have been lost to the Buffer Zone.

An elderly woman named Annie continued to live in this house long after fighting divided the city. Special arrangements and checkpoints were made to accommodate her. When she finally died, soldiers from both sides of the conflicts attended her funeral to pay their respects.

UN Peacekeepers have left their mark on the Buffer Zone, taking advantage of soft sandstone walls to carve a slogan, or the name of their lovers.

Bullet holes still mark the intensity of street-to-street fighting that took place during the Turkish invasion. The entire Buffer Zone feels as though it has been lost to time, and it is easy to imagine a sniper peering through this window as we walk past.

My informative and protective escort, Michal, pauses during the tour. He will serve in Cyprus for another year and enjoys his work, but is not especially optimistic that the Cyprus Problem will be solved anytime soon.

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4 responses to “No Man’s Land: Inside the Buffer Zone”

  1. knudsens says :

    Wow, great place.

  2. wilenc says :

    “can we…get through here?” Oh man, this looks so awesome to sneak into and explore, but what a terrible idea! What an experience you got though!

  3. Ferg Murray says :

    Great photos and interesting thoughts. I’ve been fascinated by the Green Line and buffer zone too though in a less focused way than you. See my Cyprus section at fergusmurraysculpture.com. Best wishes

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